Electronic Boost Controller Installation Guide

Setting Up The Electronic Boost Controller

The first thing you need to do is install the electronic boost controller nipples and breather filter for the vacuum. I like to use Permatex Ultra Grey RTV instead of plumber's tape on the threads. Applying a little bit to the threads and tighten it to the Boost controller. For this setup we will be putting both nipples parallel to each other, ports #1 & #2. In the center of the Boost controller #3 port will be used for the breather.

Installing Electronic Boost Controller Pins

Installing the electronic boost controller pins is simple. It doesn't matter which pin you place on a wire as they are reversible and can be connected to any of them. The only thing that matters is making sure that the pins mate up, a female pin needs to go with the male pin and a male needs to go with a female pin. Not doing this will prevent you from plugging the plug in and you'll just have to reverse the pins inside of the plastic clips. The wires on the Boost controller are universal, you can use anyone to be the positive, and anyone to be the remote wire. If you look at the images you can see how I set up the pins and crimped them and then solder and installed them into the plastic white clips. If you look closely at the wire that is provided with the boost controller you will see a little cut at the halfway point of the two wires, you're going to snip the wires in half so that you have a total of four wires. Strip the ends of the wires and crimp and solder the connector pins on to the wires. It's not necessary to solder, but I always solder my wires so that it prevents any future shortage.

Mounting The Electronic Boost Controller

I decided to make my own boost controller mounting bracket out of a piece of 1/8in flat bar steel. I cut it around 3in in length. I then put it in the vice and hammered it at roughly a 30 to 35 degree angle. I mocked up the holes on the chassis with the pre-made bracket and drilled out the mount. I found some screws and nuts and ground down the nuts so that they would fit onto the boost controller and I would be able to tighten it through the back of the bracket, then threw the boost controller and into the nuts. The last thing I did was mock up the holes for the boost controller with the mount so I could drill them out and slide the long bolt screws through. This mounted the Boost controller to the mount. Lastly I mounted the boost controller mount to the chassis with two 10 x 1.25 bolts.

Routing And Installing Boost Controller Vacuum Line To Wastegate

Routing the vacuum lines to the boost controller I used 5/32 vacuum line and cable zip ties. You always want to zip tie the ends of your vacuum lines so that you prevent any leaks. The first line you want to run is on top of the wastegate, that one will run to the left side of the boost controller which is the #1 port. The next run will be the bottom side nipple on the wastegate, this one will run to the right side of the boost controller which is the #2 port. Once you have run the bottom wastegate nipple to the #2 port you will cut it closest to the compressor on the turbochargers vacuum nipple port. You will install a 3-way tee there with a short piece of 5/32 vacuum line running off the turbo compressor nipple into the tee and back into the #2 boost controller line that goes from the bottom wastegate nipple to the #2 port on the boost controller. *If your turbocharger compressor housing does (NOT) have a nipple you can route it to the intake manifold nipple for your vacuum supply instead.

Creating Extension Wires For The Electronic Boost Controller Solenoid Wires

Get some 22 AWG wire to use as an extension for the Boost controller wire that will go into the cab of the vehicle. Take some shrink wrap and slide it over the wires first, then solder the wires to the existing boost controller wires. Choose which wire will be the 12v+ wire and add a 10amp fuse junction to that wire. Slide the shrink wrap over the soldered area and heat until it shrinks over the solder joint. Now run both wires into the cab and choose any of the two wires to be the positive for ignition on and the other wire you were going to run back to the ECU as the signal wire. With this Hondata setup you will want to choose (A11) wire with the ECU pinout. You can find the OBD1 Honda ECU pinout HERE. You can use 3M connectors, or you can simply solder it into the ECU wires and apply heat shrink tube. "I show examples of both methods in the pictures". For the 12v+ wire I went ahead and used the blue/silver cruise control wire in the dash. This wire activates when you turn the ignition key on. I used a multi meter and touched the ground and then touched it to the signal wire and turned the key 2 clicks and made sure that it only came on when the ignition key is on and it applied 12v. You may want to buy a Obd2 to Obd1 Adapter.

Turn your ignition key two clicks forward to where you hear the fuel pump prime. *If you have pulled your fuel pump 7.5 amp fuse out you will not be able to connect to the Hondata. Make sure your fuel pump 7.5 amp fuse is installed in the fuse box underneath the hood closest to the battery. Next plug your USB cable into the Hondata and into the laptop with your Hondata SManager software installed.*Don't forget to install the USB drivers for the SManager. Now select Parameters and click the Boost Control tab. Next check "Enable boost controller". Now your boost controller is successfully connected and ready to be programmed.